Whether it’s a quick mending task, a clothes upcycling project or a complicated dressmaking project, having a well stocked sewing kit that contains all the essentials to tackle all sewing projects will make your job easier and less frustrating.
Personally, I have too much stuff to fit in a single basked or box but, when you’re starting out on your sewing journey, you can repurpose something like a repurposed picnic basket, fishing box or even a shoe box. Inside, you might want to separate your little bits and bobs in smaller plastic containers, glass jars, old vitamin bottles or even zip lock plastic bags – whatever you can upcycle and recycle.
Sewing kit essentials for mending, sewing and clothes upcycling
Pins
Some people recommend buying good quality pins however I disagree. As long as you throw away pins when they lose their sharpness or if they rust, most pins are OK to use.
Store your pins in a resealable container that’s large enough for you to easily get your fingers in and out to pick up the pins. I use store my pins in containers with detachable lids so I can keep the lid beside the sewing machine to pop in the pins as I’m sewing. I can then tip the pins back into the main container when I’m finished.
I use two types of pins:
- Metal head pins – These are inexpensive and suit a wide range of fabrics. These are particularly useful if you pin fabric and then press it with the iron before sewing. Be careful after pressing as the pins can stay hot afterwards.
- Coloured head pins – The coloured head makes it easier to spot these pins than metal pins. They come with coloured glass head or coloured plastic head. Glass head pins are the more expensive option however won’t melt if you iron them. Coloured plastic head pins are cheaper but the plastic will melt when ironed.
If you’re pinning delicate fabric, you may want to invest in silk pins. These are designed to use with fine fabrics like silk and, because they’re so fine, they minimise damage to the fabric preventing noticeable pinholes in lightweight fabrics. They are more delicate and can bend or break easily. They also have trouble holding thicker fabrics securely.
Needles
Hand sewing needles are cheap and each pack usually contains a range of needles to suit a range of different sewing needs and fabrics. Sewing needles are available in sizes from 1 (thickest) to 12 (finest). Finer sizes are better for lightweight fabrics, while thicker sizes are used for heavier materials.
Tip: The larger the number on the needle, the smaller the needle.
Needle threaders
There is nothing more frustrating than trying to thread a needle when you’ve got poor vision or tired eyes. In my opinion, needle threaders are an essential addition to any sewing kit. I recommend buying a few because, if you lose one, you want a back up.
Thread / cotton
Every basic sewing kit should contain black, white, cream, dark blue, grey, red and dark green cotton. Haberdashery stores and junk shops sell packs containing all these colours. As you grow your sewing kit, you may purchase specific colours as you plan your sewing project.
If you’re buying thread for a multi-coloured fabric, choose cotton that matches the strongest colour. If you can’t find an exact match, choose a darker shade.
Did you know? Cheap threads are made from the leftovers of quality threads. Cheaper threads break easily and leave dust fibres in your sewing machine. Cotton threads are used from natural fibres but are increasingly hard to get. They have a matt finish and no flexibility, making cotton thread more delicate and easier to break. Polyester thread is more durable and can sew synthetic and stretchy fabrics.
Scissors
Sharp scissors are an essential in sewing. You don’t necessarily have to invest in a pair of specific dressmaker scissors but I strongly recommend buying a pair of scissors that can be sharpened. Some general purpose scissors are hard to sharpen making them a waste product when they get blunt. A quality pair of scissors that can be sharpened will last you a lifetime.
Dressmaking scissors have stainless steel blades and adjustable screws. They are approximately 23.5cm long, and have a flat bottom and raised handle so they rest on the cutting surface, bringing the top cutter down onto the fabric.
Don’t use your sewing scissors for other projects like cutting paper and cardboard. Use your general purpose household scissors for these jobs.
Seam ripper
A seam ripper is a tool used for unpicking stitches. This handy gadget is shaped like a little fork. The sharp blade is slipped under the stitches to cut the thread.
Even the most professional of sewers makes mistakes and has to unpick from time to time.
Elastic
Elastic is an essential for clothes upcycling. Elastic can be used to increase a waist or elevate the sleeves on a top. I always have a few different types in my sewing kit of varying widths suitable for waist bands and adding elastic around sleeves.
Tape measure and ruler
A plastic or fabric tape measure and a metal or plastic ruler will ensure your sewing lengths are accurate. Be careful not to leave plastic tape measures in the sun as the heat can warp and stretch them.
Safety pins
Safety pins are incredibly useful in a sewing kit and you should keep a variety of sizes.
Safety pins can be used as temporary fasteners for holding layers of fabric together before sewing, particularly thicker fabrics where regular straight pins may not be strong enough. Safety pins are used when creating fabric tubes to make straps and ties where the safety pin is used to help turn the fabric right side out. They are an essential when threading elastic or drawstrings through casings.
Fasteners
- Hooks and eye – These come in a variety of sizes and are an easy way to fasten a garment instead of using a button.
- Snap fasteners / poppers – Handy for closing flaps or fastenings.
Pinking shears / zigzag scissors
Pinking shears are a type of scissors with a zigzag or sawtooth blade, rather than a straight edge. Pinking shears are especially useful for fabrics that tend to fray easily, such as cotton or linen.
Their primary purpose in sewing is to cut fabric in a way that prevents it from fraying. The zigzag cut reduces the likelihood of fabric edges unraveling, especially with woven fabrics. While pinking shears don’t completely stop fraying, they significantly minimise it, helping maintain the fabric’s integrity.
Pinking shears are often used to finish seam edges to give them a clean look without the need for more advanced finishing techniques like serging or overlocking. This is especially useful when the inside of the garment won’t be lined or if a quick, simple finish is needed.
Bias binding
Bias binding is a strip of fabric that has been cut on the bias (45-degree angle to the grain of the fabric). This diagonal cut gives the binding stretch and flexibility, making it easier to curve and conform to edges, especially around curved areas like necklines, armholes, and hems.
Bias binding is primarily used to neatly finish the raw edges of a fabric. It encloses the raw edge to prevent fraying, giving a clean, polished look to the garment. Bias binding can also be used decoratively, especially when it’s made from a contrasting or complementary fabric. It can add a pop of colour or a clean line around the edges of a project, making it both functional and aesthetically pleasing.
The binding is sewn to the raw edge of fabric, folded over, and stitched again to enclose the edge, ensuring that no raw edges are exposed. It’s commonly used in both garment construction and quilting.
In summary, bias binding is a flexible and functional fabric strip used to finish and protect fabric edges, particularly on curved areas, while also adding a neat and decorative element.
Tailor’s chalk
This is used to mark fabric. Tailor’s chalk allow you to add marks to fabric but it brushes or washes off. I recommend getting a light chalk (white) and dark coloured chalk (blue) so you can mark different coloured fabrics.
Buttons
Buttons serve a variety of purposes from replacing lost buttons to embellishing clothes your upcycling or repurposing. Start with a basic set of light and dark colours in a variety of sizes and store them in a sealable container. I guarantee, before long your button collection will start growing.
Iron on mending tape
Black and white iron on mending tape are a handy addition to any mending and sewing kit. I use it when I quickly want to reduce the hem of a pair of pants, skirt or dress so I can wear it straight away. I’ll then come back to the garment later sew a permanent hem by stitching it on the machine when I have more time.
Sewing machine
While some sewing and upcycling projects can be completed by hand, in time, you’ll need to invest in a sewing machine. I bought my sewing machine in 1994 and it’s still going strong. My sewing machine has all the necessary basic analogue functions and I’ve never had a need for anything more complex. Every now and then I dab some sewing machine oil on the necessary parts and it keeps chugging along happily. Best investment ever!
If you’re on a tight budget, look out on Facebook Marketplace because people are getting rid of them all the time – often because Grandma doesn’t need it anymore. Word of advice… ask to see the machine working before handing over the cash. This doesn’t mean turning it on, check that the bobbin and thread work and it actually “sews”. Often people are selling the machine on behalf of a family member who no longer needs it.